An overcoat, in Canada’s frigid winter month, is the first article of clothing seen repetitively over each outfit. A proper overcoat is accessible – in the sense that it can be worn over a winter suit to work and guide you over to evening wear as well.
That first day, stepping out in an overcoat is a seasonal treat in sartorial terms. To carry a bit of weight on the shoulders, to feel that warmth against the crisp outdoor chill; it’s when one can really feel that they’re dressed.
An overcoats main usage is to keep warm however it should be durable enough to last years going forward. With that being said, I’ve listed a guideline of points to consider when buying what some consider to be the ultimate bespoke statement piece.
The goal is to keep this bespoke garment as classic as possible to ensure that it can be worn on top of multiple looks and for years, maintaining fit and style. That being said, the fabrication of the overcoat also lends hand to the climate that you live. In Canada for example, a coat made from 100% heavyweight wool is a guarantee for warmth and longevity. If you’re hoping for a luxurious finish, an alpaca overcoat or wool cashmere would contribute to a glamourous overall aesthetic.
Making sure that the width of the sleeve is enough to properly fit a suit underneath but also long enough to cover the sleeve is the goal when it comes to the fit of the sleeve. Adding buttons to create a statement or tone on tone aesthetic is also a choice you can personally make in the design period of your bespoke garment.
LENGTH / FIT
The length of an overcoat is purely based on preference. Between a full-length coat or one that just trims your suiting jacket, these choices are often made by you to accommodate your everyday wardrobe needs. We recommend our clients to try overcoats that are slightly shorter than the typical cut to the knee, for a modern appeal.
The choice is again, yours. Single-breasted, double, notch lapel, peak – whatever it may be in the nature of formality, as well as providing additional warmth with its double layer of fabric covering the chest area.